By: Pablo Gracidas
When experiences are taken to the limit on a trip and you return home with a suitcase full of positive energy, smells, flavors and above all nostalgic touches because “it’s over” there is no other choice but to return for what was missing, for that genuine need that never ends.
And it is that I have allowed myself to re-soak my trip with the waters of the Sea of Cortez, to return to the sea that makes one remain immersed in a world of sensations comparable to the retrospection of life itself.
Ernesto Jáuregui, local, guide, promoter of art workshops and above all a great friend, joins this collaboration again, so without further ado, here is one more story of what was experienced in the last vacation:
- Day 1: Arrival in La Paz and visit to the Magical Town of Todos Santos.
To begin with the connection of destiny, first of all, the tasting of a succulent breakfast with a view of the sea while you can observe the luminous landscape with that intense sun that reflects on the water and listen to that sound track of the moment that the waves hit us with one or another seagull showing off their majesty.
After a little time, the trip to Todos Santos was undertaken, approximately two hours between this and La Paz. The road section is unique, as it is to go through the desert landscape observing the imposing resilience of the vegetation that the cacti give us.
When you arrive in Todos Santos it is inevitable not to perceive a sense of calm, its small and colorful streets, the walls of the buildings with decorations related to the sea, transport your mind to visualize the paradisiacal turquoise waters of the South Californian sea.
The town’s tourist attraction is the enigmatic Hotel California, a category hotel boutique comprising 11 rooms and suites decorated with art from around the world and ideal for a pleasant break in the area. It should be noted that, according to information on the web portal of the same hotel, the iconic song of the band Eagles called with the same name of the enclosure, it has absolutely no connection with it.
As the afternoon was falling, sunset time was approaching, so he set out to enjoy it and what better way to do it than on the sand of the beach. About 20 minutes from the center of Todos Santos is located Secret Rocks Beach, a peculiar beach on the side of the road that has an incredible viewpoint to enjoy the impressive views of the horizon, the mere fact of stopping to contemplate the sea from above, seeing how there is no end and simultaneously listening to the strong waves crashing against the rocks, makes your skin crawl by reiterating how insignificant you are next to the ocean and that it is inevitable not to pay respect to such greatness. A pleasant talk, accompanied by refreshing drinks and snacks, accompanied the sunset that gave us the last rays of the sun, ending up taking shelter in the sea.
Day 2: from La Paz to Mulegé
This second day was lived in a very intense way because from 05:30 am the ascent to Cerro Atravesado was undertaken, a particular rocky formation high above the city of La Paz, ideal for the practice of Trail RunningHiking or mountain biking, the sunrise is received from an impressive height contemplating the city and the sea, landscapes decorated with cacti that give a touch of solitude that attracts meditation and reflexology on various situations that surround the mind.
After a short time, the fantastic transpeninsular highway was taken, heading first for Insurgentes City, belonging to the municipality of Comondú. At this point is located House of the Arts, a cultural project undertaken by Ernesto Jáuregui, unique in the region where various artistic and cultural activities are carried out, such as theater workshops, storytelling, photography, art therapy, English courses and many more; ideal for the whole family through which they seek to encourage the creative mind through the incursion of their own talent in the arts.
Subsequently, we come to Magic Town of Loreto spent almost two hours on the road. Loreto welcomed us with intense heat, a calm sea and a hospitable atmosphere around us. The acquisition of handicrafts and the taking of photographs were immediate. As we looked towards the horizon, we realized that the afternoon was slowly and profoundly beginning to dawn, so we immediately drove to our final destination: Mulegé.
Mulegé is just over two hours from Loreto, so we try to optimize the time as much as possible. That landscape of the beaches and the desert leave anyone speechless, because before arriving at the center of Mulegé, the scenarios delight the pupil with those crystal clear and turquoise waters that invite you to get carried away by the almost arrhythmic swaying of the waves.
Now that the sun was hiding, we arrived at El Coyote Beach, a beach also on the side of the road that from the beginning called for us to wrap up during the night. The tent was installed and after a few minutes of being in the dark, the body made contact with the water. The warm hospital water caused a paradisiacal effect of relaxation. It was just a prelude to what was about to happen.
When the night came, the perspective of appreciation was completely different because while the pale moon was hidden between the high mountains of the desert, the dark sky began to light up with the presence of the stars that, with their bright blinks, announced that the magic was to begin. In the midst of talks, laughter and anecdotes in which the sea water served as the main witness, it was possible to perceive the low noise of the waves, almost null, since the stillness that invaded the environment called to remain almost totally calm. Late at night, the constellations, the Milky Way, the hovering satellites and the display of the occasional shooting star that decorated the night with that sensation of mysticism that invited contemplation were clearly appreciated. Simultaneously when making movements with the hands under the water, some small lights with electric and phosphorescent tones emerged in each splash, reminding us that we were not entirely alone, that this small lighting was also part of living nature and that in some way he wanted us to witness his vain mind-boggling effect: la bioluminisencia.
The song of the seagulls woke us up the next morning, the sea was totally calm, it seemed inert with an astonishing mirror effect on which almost asleep stories were drawn, taking by the hand the nostalgia that came from knowing that it was the last day and it was about to end.
we visited The Mulegé Mission, an old church built in 1705 with stone in which parishioners can make an appearance showing their religious devotion. From the mission it is appreciated The oasis a 100% green area decorated with palm trees simulating a colossal freshwater pond home to numerous fish supplied by the river, which stubbornly mixes with the sea approximately 4 km away.
After noon, Jonathan, a local from Mulegé and a friend of Ernesto, directed us to Hidden Beach, which flaunts its name because it is immersed between the desert and the access, almost nobody knows it. A beach could be said virgin, it invited us to enter its transparent waters to enjoy the last moments of the waters of the Gulf of California.
While the sun was at its maximum splendor, stunning little fish could be seen moving terrifyingly from one place to another, hiding among stones and algae. Little by little the time to retire approached; When the time came, we undertook the one-way trip to La Paz, almost 6 hours of travel awaited us. As we moved away from the sea, the road became longer and longer as fatigue made a perfect dumbbell with the ambivalence that was perceived from having enjoyed the best experiences that had concluded.
This is how one arrives once again at the starting point in which true magic can exist in each place that is visited, that each opportunity to know must be seen as if it were an immense arsenal of extraordinary sensations that, when uncovered, will never they may be forgotten.
The invitation is extended not to deprive yourself of the occasions that lead to living a sensory world in the hiding places that each site has. To discover the most hidden secrets of this wonderful journey through life.
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